We spent a few nights anchored at Pangkor where the highlight, for me, was getting to see the beautiful hornbills up close.
We sailed, overnight, from Port Dickson. Arrived and anchored midmorning, and went ashore to find a scooter to hire. Once we had the scooter we went for a ride around the island. It is a very small island and it didn’t take us long to circle it. Along the way we stopped at Nipah Beach for lunch, and enjoyed a delicious nyonya laksa as we watched a family of hornbills. The staff at the Nipah Deli put out some fruit for the hornbills that live in a tree nearby. The hornbill ma and pa cautiously made there way to the table, and the plate of fruit, where they filled their bellies before going back to feed their two chicks.
They were awesome to watch, I even got to see the mother feeding the baby hornbill; regurgitating the food and placing it in the baby’s beak. Fantastic!
We decided that Nipah Beach was the place to be. So the next day after catching the ferry to Lumut for a look around, we pulled up the anchor and took Thorfinn around to Nipah Beach where we anchored for a couple of nights. Now we were anchored near a nice beach with restaurants and bars – Dwayne’s favourite type of place!
That night we enjoyed a cheap Malaysian meal at the nearby warungs, which are scattered between the souvenir shops and water sport hire. The following morning we had thunder storms and torrential rain which finally stopped, as abruptly as it had started, around 11am. We hopped on the bike to return it as we now had no need for it… we had already seen everything there was to see in the few days we’d been there. Time now to relax on the beach, paddle board and swim.
As we got to shore I saw a couple of hornbills, thinking they were ma and pa hornbill that we had photographed a couple of days earlier, I had a look at them sitting on the power lines and then walked on. As we continued walking down the road, and again when we were on the bike and riding to the next town, I saw at least another four pairs of hornbills. It seems that they were out in force enjoying the wet morning. It was nice to see that there were more than just the one family of hornbills living on the island. After becoming aware while in Kuching, that in Malaysia, there is still a market for the hornbill’s horn, I must admit I did despair for this beautiful bird.
Later we went in the dinghy, exploring the small islands off the beach and went for a swim. At our first stop I refused to get in the water as there was a used nappy floating in the wash on the beach! Yuk! Yes, I have forgotten to mention that during the entire sail from Port Dickson to Pangkor we sailed amid rubbish. It was depressing to see. At Giam Island we had a dip in the murky water before heading to shore for dinner – another laksa – and another glorious sunset.
Travel notes (April2015)
MYR – Malaysian Ringgit written here as RM
Anchorages – nice anchorage off Nipah Beach.
Eating at Nipah Beach – Nipah Deli Steamboat and Noodle Bar has good food at good price on the beach. Daddy’s Cafe nearby is popular. Down the road a bit, are lots of warungs with cheap food.
Scooter hire – RM30.00 (AUS $10.70) per day.
Pink Taxi’s – ask for price before hopping in. Expensive for Asia. We paid RM15.00 for a 4km trip.
Ferry to Lumut – RM10.00 (AUS $3.60) return each.
Lumut Marina – We were not impressed. We didn’t stay there, but went for a look and asked for the price. It was around RM80.00 for 45 foot yacht, extra to use the pool.
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